Our tickets to Amritsar were on the waiting list and were almost confirmed. We went from being numbers 61, 62 and 63 to numbers 2, 3 and 4. Thus, no seats. So close yet so far! The prospect of another lengthy journey on our feet or on the floor was not going down well but a happy ending came our way. After standing for about 5 minutes, a nice Punjabi man came to talk to us. We told him our plan to stand all the way, explaining that we were intent on seeing the Golden Temple and the Wagha Border closing ceremony. I told him not to worry about us, we’d done longer train rides with no seats and we are strong Scottish girls so we’d be ok. 10 minutes later he came back. He invited us to sit with his family saying he was impressed with our attitudes especially as it was , unbeknown to us, international women’s day. We sat with them until evening time: he was intent on feeding us and looking after us. When it came to sleeping time he scoured the train to find us berths and after some harsh words with the conductor on our behalf he managed. Our berths were a few carriages along from his so he came to check on us a couple of times and sent his son along to do the same. So kind. He was big and fat with a huge turban and a big beard. We wanted to sit on his knee and cuddle him: he was like an Indian Santa Clause.